Nuns Valley: Curral das Freiras from above and below
Nuns Valley is worth half a day. Look down on the village from the Eira do Serrado viewpoint, 1095 m up, then drive down to Curral das Freiras for chestnut cake and a glass of the local liqueur.
My quick take
Check the weather before you go and do the viewpoint first. If the cloud is down, the village is still worth the drive; the view will have to wait for another day.
- Best for
- One of the island’s great views, half a day from Funchal
- Viewpoint
- Eira do Serrado, 1095 m
- Without a car
- Bus line 181 from Funchal, or a half-day tour
- Local food
- Chestnuts, in cakes, soups and liqueurs
Eira do Serrado: the view from the top
The Eira do Serrado viewpoint sits 1095 m above sea level on the rim of the valley. A short footpath climbs from beside the Estalagem da Eira do Serrado, the inn at the car park, to the railings. From there the ground drops away and Curral das Freiras sits far below on a flat shelf in the middle of the valley, ringed by the central mountains.
It is one of the places where you understand how Madeira was made: a volcanic island cut into deep valleys by centuries of water and erosion. The road up is narrow and winding, so take it slowly and expect tour coaches coming the other way.
Viewpoint: Visit Madeira: Eira do Serrado Viewpoint, checked 22 October 2026.
The village the nuns hid in
Curral das Freiras means "the nuns’ corral". In 1566, when pirates attacked Funchal, the nuns of the Santa Clara Convent fled up here because the valley is hidden between the mountains and cannot be seen from the sea. The name stuck.
Today it is a parish of about 2,000 people, the largest in the municipality of Câmara de Lobos, built around the 19th-century church of Nossa Senhora do Livramento. Chestnuts are what the valley is known for, and they star in the local food: look for chestnut cake, chestnut liqueur and other chestnut sweets.
The village is not a museum. People live and work here, and an hour is enough for most visitors: a walk to the church, something with chestnuts and a look back up at the cliff you were standing on.
History and parish: Visit Madeira: Curral das Freiras, checked 22 October 2026.
Getting to Nuns Valley
Close to Funchal on the map, but up in the mountains. Choose the way that suits how you are travelling.
- With a car
About 30 minutes from Funchal
Do the viewpoint first, then drive down. The road into the village runs through a tunnel; the road up to Eira do Serrado is the narrow, winding one. Paid parking rules work the same as anywhere on the island, see getting around Madeira.
- By bus
Line 181 from Funchal
The public SIGA bus runs between Funchal and Curral das Freiras every day, with different timetables on weekdays, Saturdays and Sundays. Check the line 181 timetable for the bus back before you go.
- On a tour
Half a day from Funchal
Many half-day tours stop at Eira do Serrado and the village, often with Pico dos Barcelos or Monte. Worth it if you are not hiring a car; compare them on our tours page.
Bus line and timetable: SIGA, checked 22 October 2026.
Where to eat and buy chestnut cake
Two places in the village I know and recommend. Check opening days before you go.
- Lunch
Naibers
The best rated of the restaurants in the village, and my first choice for lunch. Known for its chestnut bread.
“Tasty food, run by very friendly owners, in an absolutely stunning setting.”
Google review - Lunch and to take home
Sabores do Curral
Chestnuts run through the whole menu here. It also sells slices of chestnut cake, chestnut liqueur and broas, the local biscuits, so you can eat and buy what to take home in one stop.
- Liqueur and cake
The cafés and shops in the village
The local shops and cafés sell chestnut liqueur and cake too, if you only want a taste with a coffee.
Walking from the valley
Curral das Freiras is the start of the PR2 Vereda do Urzal, an old path across the island from the south to the north coast. It climbs from the village to Boca das Torrinhas and drops through laurel forest to Boaventura: 10.3 km, about 4 h 30, graded moderate.
Like every classified trail, the PR2 needs a slot booked on SIMplifica before you set off, and it ends on the north coast, so plan how you will get back.
Not a hiker?
The viewpoint and the village need no booking and no walking beyond a few minutes on footpaths.
Nearby
- Funchal and Monte Pair the valley with the cable car up to Monte for a full day without long drives.
- Pico do Arieiro The peaks on the other side of the valley, best at sunrise.
- Câmara de Lobos The fishing harbour west of Funchal, on the way back down to the coast.
Nuns Valley is day 6 of our seven-day Madeira itinerary.
Questions about Nuns Valley
Is Nuns Valley worth visiting?
Yes, for half a day. The view from the Eira do Serrado viewpoint, 1095 m up, straight down onto the village is one of the most striking on the island, and the village below adds chestnut cakes and liqueurs and a quiet hour away from the coast. It is close enough to Funchal to combine with Monte or Câmara de Lobos.
Why is it called Nuns Valley?
Curral das Freiras means "the nuns’ corral". In 1566, when pirates attacked Funchal, the nuns of the Santa Clara Convent fled to this valley because it is hidden between the mountains and cannot be seen from the sea.
How do you get to Nuns Valley from Funchal?
By car it is about 30 minutes from Funchal, up into the mountains; the road to the village goes through a tunnel, and a separate narrow road climbs to the Eira do Serrado viewpoint. Without a car, bus line 181 runs between Funchal and Curral das Freiras, and many half-day tours from Funchal stop at the viewpoint and the village.
When is the chestnut festival in Curral das Freiras?
The Festa da Castanha is usually held on 31 October and 1 November, with a parade, roasted chestnuts, liqueurs and cakes. The 2025 edition was the 41st. Check the date for your year before you plan around it.
Fit Nuns Valley into your days
Tell us how long you have and whether you will have a car, and we will put the valley on the right day. A personal plan from our family is €149 for up to 5 days (€199 for 6 to 8), ready in 48 hours.