Madeira beaches: where a local swims

Funchal · Pebbles

The largest public beach on Madeira: about 2 km of pebbles with stretches of black sand, at the western end of Funchal, ten minutes from the centre. Along the whole Lido stretch, though, the swim I recommend is Doca do Cavacas.

• Pebbles and black sand
• Free beach; the bathing complex is paid

Funchal · Lava pools

Volcanic pools with the open Atlantic a step away, between Lido and Praia Formosa. My pick for a swim in Funchal: you get the lava rock of the north coast without leaving the city, and it is ideal at the end of a day of sightseeing.

• €6 entry, free up to age 6
• Open 10:00–18:00 daily
• Lifeguard in the bathing season
• Showers, toilets, changing rooms, bar
• Loungers and parasols €2.50 each

Garajau · Pebbles

A pebble beach at the foot of the cliff, inside a marine reserve, with water clear enough that divers come for it. Take the cable car down, swim, have lunch at the bar by the water and ride back up when you are done.

• Pebbles, into the sea over stones
• Bar, toilets, changing rooms, first aid
• Cable car down; no car access

Caniço · Pebbles

The beach where I spent my childhood. A proper Atlantic swim with three ways into the sea, so you can pick the one that suits the waves that day, and a promenade for the evening.

• Pebbles and a concrete sunbathing area
• Lifeguards in the bathing season
• Bar, parking, accessible toilets

Santa Cruz · Deep water

A swimming spot under the pillars of the airport runway, beside the Santa Cruz marina. Clear, deep water from the first step: you get in down a ladder or by jumping. Little known, crystal clear, and the planes land right above you while you are in the water. Only for confident swimmers, and a good last swim before your flight.

• Ladder or jump; deep at once
• No lifeguard yet
• New bar; parking next to it

Machico · Imported sand

Golden sand in the middle of Machico Bay, officially Banda d’Além. The sand came from Morocco, and because sand is rare here it is always the busiest beach in the east. When it is packed, the pebble beach next to it has the same water and the same view.

• About 70 m of imported sand
• Lifeguard in the bathing season
• Changing rooms and showers

Caniçal · Pebbles

The beach my family goes to. A pebble cove below green hills with some of the clearest water in Madeira (rated Gold for water quality by QUERCUS in 2016), a lovely bar and a promenade to Caniçal.

• Pebbles, loungers and parasols
• Lifeguard in the bathing season
• Bar and parking

Caniçal · Natural sand

A small beach of natural volcanic sand, dark and coppery, below the road at the eastern tip. Nobody brought this sand here. It reminds me of Seixal, much closer to Funchal and far less known.

• Natural dark sand
• Restaurant, changing rooms, loungers
• Parking

Paúl do Mar · Pebbles

Two pebble beaches: one by the fishing boats, and Ribeira das Galinhas, which is popular with surfers. Swim on a calm summer day, then walk to Maktub Pub for what I think is the best sunset on the island.

• Pebbles
• Bar, parasols and showers at Ribeira das Galinhas
• Surf when the swell comes in

Jardim do Mar · Pebbles

One of my favourite beaches, and a place most visitors drive past. At Portinho you get in down steps into a tiny dock. There is also a boat ramp that locals, me included, use to get in, but I do not recommend it to visitors because it is slippery; do not be alarmed if you see teenagers doing acrobatics off it. My parents often sit at the bar watching while I am in the water. Pair it with Paúl do Mar, the next village along the coast.

• Steps into a tiny dock
• Cafetaria Portinho by the water
• Surf at Portinho and Enseada on swell days

Calheta · Imported sand

Madeira’s first man-made beach, opened in 2004 with yellow sand brought from Morocco. It suits small children better than most beaches here. It is not the Madeira I would send a friend to see, though: for a real local beach, go on to Jardim do Mar.

• About 100 m of imported sand
• Bar, loungers, changing rooms
• Next to the marina

Ponta do Sol · Pebbles

A pebble cove where the valley meets the sea, with the village on one side and banana terraces climbing the cliff. Clear water and an easy swim off the shore on a calm day. Strong swimmers can also jump in from the old quay nearby.

• Pebbles; water shoes help
• Bar and accessible changing rooms
• Parking nearby

Porto Moniz · Lava pools

Lava-rock pools filled by the Atlantic on the north-west tip. The Cachalote side is free; the main complex costs €3 and has lifeguards, so it is the one for children and weak swimmers.

• Free, or €3 for the complex
• Lifeguards in the complex
• Closed on big swell days

Seixal · Natural sand

Natural black volcanic sand with the green wall of the north coast straight behind it. Come for the scenery even if the sea is too rough. On a calm day swim here, or at the Poças das Lesmas lava pools nearby (€2.50, with lifeguards).

• Natural black sand
• Showers, bar, kayak hire
• Lava pools a short walk away